When you want to give your fireplace a gorgeously antiqued look, you’ll find that one terrific way to do so is through the use of tin tiles. Tin tiles were once used on roofs and ceilings in American and Australian homes in place of the plaster detailing that was so prevalent in Europe, and though they began as a way to make up for the lack of plaster detailing, they grew into a lovely adornment in their own right. Now, instead of just using them on roofs and ceilings, why not put them on your fireplace front and see the beauty and class that they can add?

Tin tiles are one of the newest ways to add some elegance to a room, and you can be sure that they are going to stand out and shine to your guests. When you choose them carefully, they can be an amazing way to complement the look of your home and your furnishings. Tin can have a number of great finishes applied to it. For instance, if you are wanting to add a southwestern feel to your home, why not think about mocha-finished tin tiles? For something that is more Victorian, copper finished tin tiles are a great way to create the look that you are after. If you want something less shiny and more grave, why not look at tin tiles that have been given a cold black finish? This finsih can give you a look that is reminiscent of iron railings and curlicues.

When you are looking to install tin tiles on to your fireplace, there are a few things that you need to keep in mind. Before you do anything with the tiles, they are going to need to be cleaned in denatured alcohol. Make sure that if there is any sort of protective film that you remove it, because otherwise it will eventually cause the tiles to lose a great deal of shine further on down the line. Because you will be using decorative nails to put the tiles up, make sure that you choose nails that have a decorative head that is complementary to your tin tiles. When you go to nail the tin tiles down, remember that you should put the nails along the exposed edges on the tile. Be careful to nail down all sides of the tile!

When handling decorative tin tiles, remember that you are going to need leather gloves to handle them. They’re beautiful, but they can also be quite sharp, so be careful not to slice yourself open on them! Similarly, when you go to overlap the tiles, if the design calls for it, remember that you may need to use tin snips to fit the tiles together snugly. Rather than starting your design from one side or another, start them from the center.

Tin tiles add a beautiful touch to your fireplace. A fireplace is a warm and cozy part of your home, so think about how pretty firelight will look, bouncing off of the polished surfaces of your tin tiles. This might be one of the most important decorative aspects that you can add to a room, so consider what your options are and what you can do to get the results that you want!

Click Tin Tiles Ceiling to learn more about the benefits of Ceiling Tin Tile

If you have recently built or bought a new log home, then you know the joy and excitement of finally stepping back in time to the rustic feel and the slower paced lifestyle that a log home offers. You may have even said, “this is the life”!

However, if you have had your home for a couple of years, you may have noticed the stain is not looking as good as it once did. You may notice on the sunny side of the home premature fading and, or blisters and peeling. You may see black spots and patches showing through the stain that seem to be growing larger. I am often asked if this stain performance is the normal progression and is it to be expected. My answer is “yes under the circumstances.” However, the answer should be no if the log home is properly prepared to receive the stain. If any of this sounds familiar, there is a good possibility more is going on with your logs than you might imagine.

When logs are first milled they are left with what is known in the industry as “Mill Glaze” on the surface of the logs. Caused from the fast spinning hot blades in the saw mill, it draws the sap to the surface of the wood and dries forming a thin glaze or film on the logs. Also, when first milled, the logs generally have a high level of moisture either from being freshly cut logs or being left outside in the rain or both.

When a log home is built using these “green” and “mill glazed” logs, you can expect to have finish problems sooner rather than later. Once the logs are erected and the roof dried in, most of the time the builder will have it stained to keep any more dirt from accumulating from the ongoing construction. Good for the builder, bad for the homeowner. When this is done, several things are occurring.

First, with “green” or wet logs, not only will the stain not soak in properly, but the stain will trap water inside the logs, especially if it is a “Film Forming” stain. The film acts as a barrier to keep moisture out. However, it also keeps moisture in. With poor stain penetration, moisture trapped in the wood and the presence of mill glaze, it can be concluded that any amount of stain that may have seeped into the logs, will not stand much of a chance of having a lasting effect or offer much protection.

Another problem with having green and/or mill glazed logs is the real possibility of the presence of mildew and wood fungus. Logs are often stored outdoors. Some companies store them in shelters, some do not. Either way, they attract dust, dirt and if in the southeastern US. most likely mildew. They then are shipped to the jobsite where they sit for at least a few weeks to months before being erected, still attracting dirt and mildew. Now once erected, if the stain is applied, it not only does not soak in properly, but it also seals in any dirt, dust, mildew or anything else that may have floated by. Now, combine green logs with mill glaze, some dirt and mildew and (it is not unusual to see a footprint or two tracked on a few logs) and you have the ideal surface for certain stain and finish failure!

There are two ways to solve these problems.

First, the homeowner will have to make certain that the logs are properly cleaned after the construction and before any stain, sealer or other finish is applied. This may not be as easy as it seems. Dealing with time constraints, banking personnel, inspectors and the GC. can pose their own challenges. However, if you have the time to keep an eye on the project (which often times is impossible) and can stress to all involved that you expect this cleaning procedure to be preformed before any stain is applied, and you stick to your guns, it may just happen.

The second way and also the most expensive as well as the least desirable is the dreaded chemical strip or cob blasting. Depending on the product used on the logs will dictate the removal process. The old stain will have to come off so that the mildew and other contaminants under the stain can be removed. Although the logs may look clean after stripping, we always do a chlorine wash to make sure any mildew spores left deep in the wood cells will be destroyed. Due to the microscopic size of the mildew spores, there is no way of knowing by looking to see if the wood is completely cleaned or not.

Once the stripping process is complete, the next and most important step is allowing the logs proper drying time. This is vital! Let me stress it again. This is VITAL! If the logs are not dry, you have not only wasted your time going through the stripping process, but you are right back where you were when you started.

Logs and wood in general should be as dry as possible. The dryer the wood the more the stain will be absorbed. (Just like a sponge.) Now the question becomes,” how do you know when it is dry enough?” There is only one true way…Use a moisture meter. The moisture meter has two probes that are inserted into the wood and records the moisture content. Remember, the dryer, the better. Depending on the location, humidity and weather conditions, the ideal moisture content for applying a sealer should be at least 18% or lower. A 12% reading is about as good as one can expect to get in the southeastern United States. If the sealer is applied within this range, you will get an acceptable absorbsion rate and proper adhesion resulting in maximum protection and performance.

No stain, sealer or any other finish will hold up if the logs are dirty, have mill glaze or are green and have high moisture content. Proper preparation is paramount. There is no other way to obtain proper absorption and adhesion of any sealer in order to provide a long lasting finish without first having a clean and dry log.

This is one log home restoration project that the homeowner could avoid if they are aware of this simple yet extremely important process. In this case, an ounce of prevention is worth far more than a pound of cure.

Earl D. Johnson is the owner of Taskmasters Wood Maintenance. Living in a log home that my wife and I renovated and built two addition rooms allowed us to deal with every aspect of log home maintenance. Our business is log and cedar home, deck and dock restoration. We enjoy sharing our knowledge to help educate the homeowner on proper maintenance techiques so they will have the ability to make informed decisions when planning for their home maintenance and restoration. http://www.taskmasters3.com

One method sometimes employed to turn surface water away from cellar walls is to lay a concrete pavement, walk, or gutter, 2 or 3 feet in width, around the house with a gradual slope away from the walls.

Where the sidewalk joins the wall, the wall surface should be roughened, cleaned, and moistened and the concrete rounded up to meet the face of the wall. This method will make a good bond and turn water away from the joint.

The gutter type of construction is used to conduct surface water along the wall and lead it to some low spot. The gutter should be at least 2 feet wide over all, with an outer lip, or edge, about 5 inches in width.

The depression should be about 4 inches deep at the outer edge and sloped gradually up to meet the wall, and the joint should be treated in the same manner as above recommended for the sidewalk.

In low damp locations, or in other places where there is a large amount of water in the subsoil, it is advisable to install drain tile around the footings to lower the water table, or water level, and to carry the water away before it can penetrate into the cellar. Where conditions are unusually bad, waterproofing may be necessary in addition to the drain.

Generally this is going to be underneath something like a swim spa or hot tub, if you have one. Sometimes under bathtubs as well, if you have a leak or a habit of splashing about while taking a bath.

To lay the tile, dig a trench adjoining, to a depth of a few inches below the level of the bottom of the cellar floor but not below the footing level. The tile should be at least 4 inches in diameter (although 3-inch tile has proved satisfactory in some cases) and should be laid so that the grade or fall will be smooth and as sharp as possible to avoid settlement of mud within the pipe.

Kitchen faucets, bathroom fixtures, and counter tops should all have sufficient tiling as well, to prevent water from getting into the innards of your home and rotting them.

The tile should also be connected to an outlet similar to those recommended for down spouts. The cracks between the joints should be covered with pieces of tin or strips of roofing paper, to prevent sediment running into the pipe.

The pipe should be carefully laid and protected against settlement or breakage under strain, but surrounding it with fine screened gravel or broken stone, tamped firmly around it. Following this, coarser material up to 1 inch in size should be covered over the pipe to a depth of 1 or 2 feet.

Before back filling to grade with earth, it is well to spread burlap or bagging or to place sods, grass side down, on top of the stone to prevent fine material falling or washing down into the stone.

Steam rooms are much the same, but the sauna is a bit simpler, especially the dry sauna, because they are located outside and any damage done by moisture will not directly affect the home.

Allison Ryan is a freelance marketing writer specializing in do-it-yourself home improvement from sauna and hot tub installation to bathroom fixtures. For a wide selection of hot tubs, steam showers, and infrared saunas, stop by http://www.mybath.biz/.

There are many everyday household items that people may not think about often. Included among these items are switchplates. Switchplates are the plates that cover light switches and outlets. They can come in a variety of different designs, shapes, and sizes. Their basic function is to hide the wires around outlets and switches, thus protecting them from harm. Switchplates are attached to the wall with screws and can cover any number of light switches. Some switch plates are made of plastic, while others are made of brass or some other type of metal.

People choose to customize switchplates for a variety of reasons. Customized switchplates can add a special flair to any room. Switchplates can either blend in with the room or contrast with the room. Depending on the colors and design of the switchplate, the room can be made more aesthetically pleasing. If a room seems to be dull, then adding an interesting switchplate on a light switch can really spice the room up. Some people have rooms with specific themes. Switchplates can be used to compliment the theme in any room.

Of course, rooms can have a wide variety of themes. As a result, there are a great amount of themes available for switchplates. There are switchplates available for almost any color scheme. Switchplates with color themes can try to utilize the specific color in an interesting and creative way. There are also themes for hobbies and collectables. For example: lighthouses and music are two types of switchplate themes available. There are also religious and patriotic switchplates that many people enjoy.

The fact that switchplates can be so decorative and fragile can cause many people to have reservations in regards to cleaning switchplates. It is important to clean switchplates so that they continue to look great. One of the best and simplest ways to clean a switchplate is through the use of a mild dish detergent and water. Using a soft cloth to gently clean the switchplate will keep it looking great, while not damaging it. Window cleaner can also be used in order to clean switchplates.

In conclusion, if you want to spice up any room, creative switchplates are a great option. Your choice of a switchplate can reflect your individuality and your tastes. It can accent any theme in a room, or help brighten up an otherwise dull part of the house. If you are a collector, you can find switchplates that will add to your collection. Be sure to shop around and look at all of the possible switchplates that are available and choose the one that best fits in with you and your room.

Alison Blakely recommends that you visit http://www.switchhits.com/ for more information on switchplates.

Repairing scratches in hardwood floors are easier than you may be thinking. Depending on how many scratches there are, sometimes a simple repair kit will make the necessary fix in short time. If the damage is noticeably bad throughout the room, you may have to sand the floors.

Scratches can originate from a variety of items; shoes, moving furniture, dropped items, and other accidents. Many people feel scratches and dings add character to their hardwood floors. One of the main reasons for scratches in hardwood floors comes from moving heavy furniture, with no pads underneath the legs to protect the floor. Even animals with nails can leave their marks.

You should take some preventative steps to prevent yourself from creating the task of repairing scratches in hardwood floors. For example:

• You should consider soft paw caps for dogs or declawing your cats, which will make sure their nails wouldn’t scratch the floor.
• Either purchase pads that stick to the bottom of furniture or consider hiring a professional mover to carefully move your furniture.

Thanks to the ever-growing advancements in repairing scratches in hardwood floors you now have better options. A repair kit can help in fixing minor scratches. Repair kits come with different applications for any color of wood flooring from the lightest to the darkest and are generally easy to apply. Complete instructions come with the kit.

If there are multiple scratches, you may need to sand and completely refinish your floors. Repairing scratches in hardwood flooring using this method can be quite labor and time intensive. Sanders can be rented to remove the old finish. Next, you would have to thoroughly clean the floor before you re-apply finish. This is a very important step, as the application of the finish over a dust-laden floor can result in poor quality results.

Once you are ready to apply the finish, be sure to follow the specific directions for the product you’ve chosen. Most will require multiple applications to ensure a good long-lasting finish.

Repairing scratches in hardwood floors when the entire floor must be refinished can be quite a task for a do-it-yourself project. There are many professional refinishers available. As with any home improvement project, if you choose to hire a professional, get more than one quote and compare services of each company carefully.

Wood floors are a beautiful asset to any home. Taking these few steps to bring the old floors back to life will be very well worth it. After all, hardwood floors can last as long as the home if they are properly maintained.

This article was written by Gregg Hicks of http://www.reliableremodeler.com which provides Internet-based home improvement information and services. Offering homeowners a simple, quick, and free way to access, qualified home improvement remodeling contractors.

Wood floors are a very popular selection for home-improvement projects these days. It’s not hard to see why they are so popular, as they have a beautiful, natural appearance, and are comfortable to walk on. They can be a little more difficult to install than some other more simple flooring materials, but they are still well within reach of the ability of most average homeowners.

The one thing that you have to understand about wood floors is that water and moisture are its enemies. So a wood floor will fare best in a moisture free environment. You even have to be careful when it comes to cleaning your wood floors so that excess water or moisture doesn’t seep into the cracks and cause problems later on.

There are a few different kinds of wood flooring to choose from and we will try to discuss each one to help you get more familiar with them.

First of all, let’s talk about strip flooring. This may be what you most often think of when you think of hardwood flooring. Strip flooring is made up of boards that are usually 3/4 inches thick and 2 1/4 inches in width. They are designed as tongue and groove boards that fit very closely together as they are installed. As you put down each board, you simply place a nail through the tongue of the board to hold it down, and when the groove of the next board fits up next to it, the nail will be covered. As with most kinds of wood flooring, strip flooring benefits from having a solid subfloor installed underneath to hold it in place. Often subfloors are made up of 3/4 inch to one inch plywood sheets that are nailed down first.

Plank flooring is very similar to strip flooring except that the boards can come in random widths of 3 in. or more. The length is usually around two to 8 ft.

Parquet flooring is very popular these days as it features dozens of patterns, textures, and thicknesses. Very often, parquet flooring consists of a veneer of decorative hardwood glued in patterns to squares of softwood backing, then laid on a subfloor. It can be very easy to install, and yet still has the look of a custom designed floor. The subfloor must be very clean and dry in order to get proper adhesion for the parquet floor that goes on top. Sometimes adhesive must be spread on the subfloor first as you install the parquet tiles, and sometimes the adhesive comes as a backing on the parquet tiles themselves.

Floating floors are becoming very popular too, as you don’t have to actually fasten it down to a subfloor. Instead the plastic laminate material is interlocked and placed on top of a thin foam pad that in turn rests on a subfloor made up of plywood or concrete. Laminate is very durable, and scratch resistant and can tolerate moisture much better than true hardwood floors. With proper tools the average homeowner would be able to install a floating floor fairly easily.

So which wood floor is best for you? Only you can answer that question, but hopefully the information we have provided will help you make your decision and be able to choose the best ood floor for your home.

Thad Pickering writes on many consumer related topics including home improvement. You can find best laminate flooring and cheap laminate flooring by visiting our Home Improvement website.